When
positioning the video camera or still camera in an
exposed location, I sometimes wrap the camera and
tripod in camouflage material. This is available
commercially in a variety of formats but some time ago
I purchased a long sleeved t-shirt in camouflage
material and paid £ 6.00 The sleeves have
elasticated cuffs so I chopped one sleeve off to cover
my long telephoto lenses, the remaining material with
sleeve I use to cover a digital still camera and lens
or video camera and tripod.
A much
cheaper solution than buying customised lens covers
and tripod covers and equally as effective. OK, this
solution is not waterproof but I don't want to sit in
the rain with expensive equipment any way. I don't
mind just watching badgers in the rain but you really
need good lighting for photography and wet
conditions tend to produce dull flat lighting.
One problem when gathering
video footage of Badgers is that most of the video appears
shot from the same angle and position. This happens
because your shooting angles are governed greatly by the
availability of cover around the set or location. The
direction of the wind ALWAYS dictates your viewpoint but
after studying lots of my
video footage, I realised to make things more interesting
for the viewer, I needed new angles, closeups, different
backgrounds.
How was I to achieve this? I could place
the video camera at a particular location in advance and set it to
record and simply hope some action took place. One
downside of that method is I like to shoot on the high quality
setting (not long play) and tape length is usually
restricted to about one hour.
Those of you that have done
a fair bit of badger watching will be able to testify
that there is no guarantee that brock will appear
within a 60 minute period.
What if the exciting action
takes place just as the tape is coming to an end -
very frustrating. The other disadvantage of placing
the camera then setting record on manually is that
there is a chance your scent will remain at the site
for the duration of the one hour recording period.
Using remote control, the
camcorder can be placed well in advance, left powered
up (over 3 + hours duration possible with extended
battery) and activated when required.
Quite simply, I wanted to be able to set the video camera
in place, leave it powered on, and have the ability to
start and stop recording at will. Remote control was the
answer. The infrared unit that came with it was limited in
distance, the cable remote was only three feet long and
extending this was not guaranteed to work to the length I
required.
I struck on the idea of using amateur radio
controlled model equipment to activate the record button
on the wireless remote control. Sorted! I
built something years ago using a similar setup to press a
cable release on Minolta 35mm SLR. It worked a treat but I
never actually used it to take wildlife shots.
Here's the deal!
2 Channel remote
control kit, transmitter, receiver, 2 servo's etc from
EBAY
£43.00
Aluminium video
camera mounting brackets (set of 4) EBAY
£ 9.00
Plastic holesaw
kit case box from work
£ 0.00
Camouflage duck
tape
£ 5.00
My time, bits
and pieces, etc
£ 0.00
Priceless!
£57.00
Many thanks to
Jeff Ayrton who crafted the servo mounting posts to a
very precise height. Thanks Jeff.
This
will give you an idea of the main components of my
home made remote control activation system.
The
digital camcorder is on the left with the remote control
unit linked by cable actually housed within the foam
filled plastic case.
The case
in the center also houses the aluminium mounting
bracket, the servo and the receiver.
The
transmitter is on the right. This equipment allows me
to set the camcorder in place then retreat to a safe
distance within view of the sett so that I can start
or stop the record feature at will.
It works
a treat now that I have ironed out a few minor
problems.
Note:
I purchased a
professional equivalent remote release for my Canon digital SLR
cameras to allow remote activation by infrared over
300FT but that cost me considerably more. The Canon
unit works a treat and
is compact and efficient but making something for much
less money is twice the fun. Must be the hootsman in
me!
The battery and receiver module is bottom left, the servo is the
little black box middle right.
The wired remote controller
for the video camera is at the top of the photo with a small bit
of blue plastic sleeving araldited onto the record button.
A bit heath-robinson but it
works well.
The servo arm simply
rotates clockwise or anti clockwise and the small copper
coloured bar transmits this into a push pull action (see the
photograph below or try the
short video of the servo in action).
Not all camcorders come
with a wired remote controller as well as a wireless controller but the
Panasonic NV GS500 does. It produces very good quality footage
too and in low light - a necessity. This is 3 CCD model but not
HD quality but more than adequate for the purpose.
(Right) The remote control is highlighted
in yellow.
This was inserted through the
aluminium bracket and the push rod attached to the servo was
aligned to sit within the blue plastic sleeve that acts as a
guide for the arm.
The threaded bolt and nuts are
simply there to act as a guide for the push rod.
This technique could be
used for any standard remote control with a push to make
switch for record. I suppose and infrared remote could also
be used provided the transmitter had a line fo site from the
box to the camera.
With this freedom of when
to activate record and to be able to do this from a distance,
the chances of getting sniffed at by brock are greatly reduced
and I can capture the action and make more efficient use of the
tape. The next problem was how to mount the camera and receiver
box.
(Left)
This was taken on location and illustrates one method of
mounting the video camera and remote control receiver. There
is a wire from the remote control unit (box) leading to the
video camera but that isn't visible in the photo. I slung
the plastic receiver box over a short stubby branch.
You will notice I've
camouflaged the plastic box using camo duct tape - yes you
can purchase very sticky, very strong
duct tape, ideal for the job.
A gorilla pod holds the
camera securely onto a branch. make sure you buy the largest
unit suitable for digital cameras. These G'Pods are
amazingly handy items and can be used as a small tripod or
simply in bendy form to mount a camera virtually anywhere.
I've added a ball and socket head to mine for extra control
in aiming the camera or lens. The Gorilla pod is also very
quick to install and don't worry folks, it doesn't work
loose.
In this example, the
video camera was pointing down at a badger sett beneath some
tree roots and I was positioned some twenty yards away under
a tree with just the mozzies for comfort. Did I mentioned I
hate mozzies with a vengeance!
MOUNTING THE CAMCORDER AND
RECEIVER
I use a
variety of gadgets to mount the camcorder and receiver on trees,
branches, fence posts etc. The Gorilla Pods are ideal for a
quick setup and if a tree branch of minimal diameter is suitable
and close by. Alternatively, I have used Ratchet Straps with
aluminium brackets. This combination is great of your only
option is a large trunk of a tree or a rather hefty branch or
object. The ratchet straps are very secure and two can be used
for an additional comfort factor if required. (See the
photographs) I also had a small u-bend type bracket made so that
I can hook this through the ratchet strap and hang the receiver
from it.
On some of the
video brackets I have mounted a small ball and socket joint and
they can be used to mount a light camera or camcorder or even
flashlights. Total filming flexibility is offered by a
combination of bought and home made bits and pieces and it's
great fun trying these out to catch old brock unawares and in
his natural environment.
